Saint-Germain l’Auxerrois – The Former Royal Parish Church When the Louvre Was the Royal Residence

Saint-Germain l’Auxerrois appears to be a massive church, flanking the majestic bell tower on both sides. At least that was what we first thought! However, that bell tower and its lovely clock, are actually part of the town hall  (mairie) for the first arrondissement.

 

 

The Church of Saint-Germain l’Auxerrois

Saint-Germain l’Auxerrois is located to the right of the bell tower. Its own bell tower is much shorter and is at the rear of the church. All that remains of the original 12th century church is this bell tower.

The tower was roman in style but was remodeled to a gothic style in the 19th century. It is not visible in the photo below.

As we see it today, the church dates from the 15th century. When the Louvre was still a royal palace, this church was the royal parish church. Charles V of the House of Valois turned the fortress of the Louvre into a royal residence during the 1300s.

Look closely at the two buildings flanking the tower. As they are very similar in style, it is not hard to see why we were confused as to which part was the church!

 

There is a lovely garden walk between the mairie and the church, found through this archway.

It was not this large bell tower of the mairie that tolled on St Bartholomew’s day in 1572 but the small tower toward the back of the church.  That day marked the beginning of the attacks that targeted French Calvinist Protestants (the Huguenots) during the French Wars of Religion.

Saint-Germain l’Auxerrois Exterior

The porch of the church is filled with sculptures. Along with Sainte-Chapelle, it is the only other church in Paris with an existing porch. These  statues are  protected from the elements and are in remarkable condition.

The style is flamboyant gothic. Also above this porch, I could see the large rose window that I felt sure would be spectacular when viewed from inside.

 

To the right of the entry portal: from left to right, these portal statues are Saint Germain de Paris, Sainte-Genviève and the Archangel Michel.

 

 

On the left of the entry portal: Queen Ultrogothe, King Childebert and Saint Vincent.

 

In the center of the entry portal is the Virgin Mary.

 

This image was taken while standing in the middle of the porch with a view towards the mairie. My objective was two-fold: to give a sense of how large the porch is and to also showcase the vaults in the ceiling.

As you read on, there is an image of the vaults inside the church and I think the porch vaults are much more interesting, architecturally speaking.

Saint-Denis has Lost His Head

We also found this group of statues on the porch which included Saint-Denis. Those familiar with French history will quickly recognize the headless statue as Saint-Denis.

If you don’t know any French history, you can easily discern who it is that is headless as his name is carved in the base of the statue.

Saint-Denis was beheaded along with two of his friends on the highest hill in Paris in about 250AD. The location was the Mountain of the Martyr, or Montmartre as it is known today.

Saint-Denis was the first Bishop of Paris and is venerated as the patron saint of France.

Beyond the Portal

These vaults in the church itself are an interesting feature but I think those vaults found on the porch are much more interesting!

 

 

Weekday mass is celebrated in the Chapel of the Virgin.

Stained Glass in Saint-Germain l’Auxerrois

My reason for visiting the church was the stained glass windows.

An unarguable point is that  Sainte-Chapelle has some magnificent stained glass,  but the windows here at Saint-Germain l’Auxerrois are mesmerizing in a completely different way.

Saint Germain – possibly my favorite stained glass because of the frescoes around it.

Whereas the stained glass windows of Sainte-Chapelle literally compose the walls of the chapel, here each window stands in its own glory.

Each can be studied as you would study a famous painting in a museum. There is a mere 256 feet of stained glass which dates from the Renaissance.

Here is a closer look at the choir windows from the photo above.

 

Windows in the choir display the prophets, the apostles, the tree of Jesse (lineage of Christ), the Virgin and the holy defenders of France.

At eye level in the choir, this is the window that is just barely visible in the image above.

 

Stained Glass Gallery

Just click on any photo below to view the images full size.

 

Directions for Saint-Germain l’Auxerrois

Where did the church derive its name? It is from the 5th century Saint Germanus who was the Bishop of Auxerre. The church is super close to the Louvre so drop in and have a look around before or after you visit the Louvre.

 

And if you can’t go in person, explore the church from the viewpoint of a drone!

References

• The Louvre; Alexandre Bonfante-Warren
• Saint-Germain l’Auxerrois website www.saintgermainlauxerrois.fr
• J.K. Huysmans; Saint-Germain l’Auxerrois  first published in La Tour de France in 1905 and then in Trois Eglises et Trois Primitifs in 1908   www.huysmans.org/troiseglise/germaintour.htm