Bourgueil

Located equi-distant from Villandry, Saumur and Chinon many wonderful little villages surrounded our gite. Bourgueil was one of these towns that captivated my heart.

Home of La Galette Bourgueilloise

Our first few trips to Bourgueil took us only to the outskirts where the Hyper-U is located. Hyper-U is one of France’s big box supermarkets. It was there that we saw the sign for the weekly local market. Nothing, except cheese and wine, has a pull on me like a local market when I am traveling in France so we arrived early on market day. Too early! By 8 a.m. summer markets are in full swing but on a misty October morning the market in Bourgueil was only just setting up.

Not to be deterred, we wandered the streets looking for the most likely place for tea and coffee and perhaps something tasty to eat. It was damp and chilly with a clear promise of rain. Soon we discovered where all the stall-owners were! They, too, were enjoying a café and croissant ! Bourgueil is not a large town, approximately 4000 by a census count I found, but within the area that we walked, we counted more than five boulangeries and the smell of warm bread wafting out from each of them was very enticing!

Warmth emanated from the boulangeries with their glowing lights and aroma of baking bread.

La Galette Bourgeuilloise

We also found a pâtisserie, Pâtisserie Brémaud, which is famous for one special type of dessert. This dessert is made only here in Bourgueil and only at this patisserie. La Galette Bourgeuilloise is an amazing treat with a creamy goodness in the center. It reminded me of my mom’s Boston cream pie except without the chocolate ganache on top.

La Galette Bourgeuilloise

bourgueil

In addition to the selection of patisseries and breads there was also a large selection of made-in-house chocolates. This was the perfect place to warm up with tea and a slice of their special galette while we waited on the market to open. Pâtisserie Métry Fabrice is located across from the market hall which allowed us to watch the progress of the market while we enjoyed ourselves.

Pâtisserie Brémaud

Market Hall on a non-market day!

The market hall also proved to be the best place to wait out the rain that intensified before the market was truly in full swing. However, since it was market day, every square inch was filled with vendors’ stalls and people. This photo was on a non-market day.

Bourgueil is full of delights in addition to the market and pâtisserie. The morning we arrived for the market, barricades that pedestrianized the town center routed us past the Abbey. What a find!

Abbey of Saint-Pierre de Bourgueil-en-Vallée

The Countess Emma of Blois founded the Abbey of Saint-Pierre de Bourgueil-en-Vallée in 990. It was at one time famous for its gardens. So famous, in fact, that the French poet Pierre de Ronsard wrote about these gardens and also about his young love Marie who lived in Bourgueil. Sadly, most of the Abbey buildings were destroyed during the French Revolution.

Abbey of Saint-Pierre de Bourgueil-en-Vallée

We wanted to explore the Abbey and visit the Museum but the Abbey and Museum are only open on the weekend afternoons in October. During July, August and September they are open daily 2pm – 6 pm. Update – Read about our visit to the abbey when we returned in 2017.

Église Saint-Germain de Bourgueil

The local church, Église Saint-Germain de Bourgueil, is one street over from the Market Hall and easily missed amidst the market stalls until the bell in the tower chimes. We took refuge there when the rain began to pour down and what we discovered was lovely!

Église Saint-Germain de Bourgueil sets the background for the market vendors.

The altar is spectacular and at the time I did not realize that for years this beautiful altar had been without the statues you see on the shelves/niches. In 2013 an anonymous benefactor paid to have the statues replaced.

Main altar

This stained glass windows dedicated to Joan of Arc also had a wonderful statue dedicated to her just beneath the window.

Joan of Arc

I was so absorbed in the polychrome ceiling paintings, I also almost missed this beautiful carving of the Virgin Mary. According to church history, in 1836, the Holy and Blessed Virgin Mary appeared to the parish priest. At that time the priest was Abbé Fournier. The Virgin in this wooden statue is as she appeared to the priest. A local artist sculpted the statue.