Exploring Loches France From the top of the Donjon to the Dungeon
The misty foggy morning greeted us as we set out for a day-trip to the medieval town of Loches France. The day was Wednesday, Loches’ big market day and everything we had read indicated that this market is one of the best in the area. We weren’t going to let a bit of rain deter us from having fun!
Market Day
The market meanders through the cobbled streets with vendors inviting you to try the produce. One vendor was selling soup for take-away. We made a mental note of the seller’s location and planned to return just before the market closed. We purchased a bottle of tomato soup and from another vendor a loaf of crusty bread for dinner. After being out of doors for most of the cool autumn day, the soup was just perfect at the end of the day!
Market Day in Loches
Next we wandered the town before we visited the Donjon.
City Gates
The Franciscans’ or Cordelier’s Gate is the most recent (1498) of the four gates in the wall that at one time surrounded the lower town. It gets its name from its proximity to the Cordelier’s Convent.
Franciscans’ or Cordelier’s Gate
Another gate to have survived to present day is the Picois gate. The Town Hall, which is flying the French flag, is located here and there is a clock on both sides of the tower. In this view, you are looking through the gate to the “lower town” where the market is in full swing.
Picois Gate
As we climbed Rue du Château to the old town we came upon the Chancellery which dates from the 15th century. Its façade is said to have been inspired by the works of Michelangelo.
The Chancellery
Michelangelo inspired façade
Loches France Old Town
The Royal City of Loches (old town) is surrounded by three walls. The Donjon is at one end, the Royal Appartments at the opposite end and the Church of St-Ours lies in the middle. We climbed steep narrow streets that appeared pedestrianized until, to our surprise several cars hurried past us!
Climbing rue du Château in Loches
The Donjon
We discovered that Loches is one of the few towns to have kept almost all of its 12th century ramparts. Inside the walls you will the Donjon, the Church of St-Ours and the Royal Appartments. The Royal Apartments have housed Charles VII, Louis XI and François I. I really enjoyed wandering the medieval streets and our climb to the top of the Keep (Donjon) was one of the best parts of the day. The sun broke through the clouds to help us celebrate reaching the top!
Map of the Old Town
The Donjon was built by the fourth count of Anjou between 1010 and 1035 and is 118 feet tall. However, we started our tour by descending down into the prison, i.e. the dungeon. This part of the Donjon that houses the prison is 27 meters tall and you go 20 meters underground for the visit to the prisons.
The tufa stone dug out in the 11th century created this dungeon and the building of the Donjon itself. It also provided an escape passage in medieval times and when taken, you surface outside the Donjon. By the time had climbed to the top of the Donjon the sun was out and provided spectacular views.
Old town gate on the right, donjon on the left
The dungeon exits on the right at the end of the short little path
No elevator here!
This view as we climbed flight after flight of stairs shows the now non-existent floors in the donjon.
The climb to the top of the donjon is not for the feint of heart! But oh, the reward when you reach the top is well worth the effort.
View of the ramparts from the top of the Donjon.
Loches from the top of the Donjon
Church of St-Ours
The Church of St-Ours dates from the 11th century. It is famous for the polychrome carving on the doorway and its two pyramid-shaped domes above the nave.
Polychrome carving on the doorway of St-Ours
Church of St-Ours
However, what really caught my eye was the tomb of Agnés Sorel. The white marble carvings were spectacular, with two angels praying over her head which rests on a plump stone pillow and two lambs at her feet. Agnés Sorel was the official mistress of King Charles VII.
Tomb of Agnés Sorel
Pillow and Angels details
Lower Town Loches France
Back down the hill to the lower town to search for a lunch: I had made a list of possible places to stop for lunch and as luck would have it, not one of them was open this late in the season. Just as frustration was setting in, we stumbled across an open café. Not just any café, though! This was Cake-Thé ! Having had lunch at Cake-Thé in Bourges we were delighted to find it had a sister café here in Loches. Cake-Thé is small and the maître d’/waiter/chef handles everything. He is a one-man show of efficiency! We were delighted that our list of restaurants had all been closed for the winter as we would have been very disappointed to miss the opportunity to eat here again.
Cake-Thé
Finally, I just have to share with you a few of my favorite signs we found hanging around in Loches. The artistry in the signs is always unique and often times colorful! My favorite sign was La Mémoire du Temps Librairie Ancienne which is dedicated to the sale of rare books both old and modern.
Loches Signage
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