Montmartre
Montmartre is a unique part of Paris that is untouched by the Haussmannian street reforms that you find in the city center. Here there are no wide sweeping boulevards. Instead there are the delightful climbing cobblestone streets of an urban village that are a delight to wander.
Around Metro Abbesses
Arriving at Abbesses metro stop takes to you the heart of the 18th arrondissment and within easy access of the Basilica Sacre-Coeur. Place d’Abbesses was named for the former Bendictine convent that stood here.
Sacre Coeur
Exit the metro and walk to Square Rictus located behind the metro stop where you will discover the wall of Je t’aime : I Love Yous. 612 enameled tiles (approximately 8 x11) with calligraphic signatures of “I love you” in more than 300 languages adorn this wall. This project of Fredérick Baron who collected the signatures and Clair Kito who orchestrated the calligraphy is fascinating and can be read at Les Je t’aime.
The Wall of “Je t’aime”, I love you.
There are over 1000 signatures on the wall of ” Je t’aime “.
Can you find Je t’aime in English?
Around Metro Abessess you will find a plethora of small cafés. We ate at Le Relais Gascon (6 rue des Abbesses) which is famous for its enormous salads. We loved our huge salad but as we left we noticed that the salads and pizzas in the café across the street looked equally delicious.
To walk off our enormous salad, we followed Le Passage du Abbesses north to Place Émile-Goudeau, a little cobbled square which borders rue Berthe. Le Bateau Lavoire, which despite being a rather non-descript building, gains notoriety for being home to Picasso, Modigliani, Stein, and Appolinaire among other writers and artists. Picasso’s studio was at 13 Place Émile-Goudeau.
Sacre-Coeur to Place du Tertre
Steps up to Sacre-Coeur
The Basilica of Sacré-Coeur access is to the east of Place Émile-Goudeau, just follow rue Berthe east , merging with Rue André Barsacq until you reach the Funicular.
To reach the Basilica, you have your choice climbing beautiful steps like those you see at the right or you can arrive at the top of the mount via the Funicular (an elevator/train).
If you are able, take the steps because the view when you look back down is beautiful! Turn right when you reach the top (either via stairs or Funicular) to head to Sacré-Coeur.
The church is beautiful and the 5 euros to climb to the top of the dome for amazing views of Paris is well worth the cost. As you are taking in the view, look for Église Saint Pierre as it will be directly below you.
View from the dome of Sacre-Coeur
Saint Pierre de Montmartre
Église Saint-Pierre de Montmartre
Église Saint-Pierre which is one of the oldest churches in Paris, is supposedly built on the site of a temple to Mercury. The easiest way to see it is from above, from the dome of Sacre Coeur. Across the street from the church is Place du Tertre which is a mecca of artist stalls.
From Place du Tertre, follow Rue Norvins west until you reach Rue des Saules. At the corner of Rue Saint Vincent and Rue des Saules is the famous caberet Au Lapin Agile. Even if you don’t plan a trip to the caberet, this street is delightful to walk!
Au Lapin Agile Cabaret
One of Montmartre’s many picturesque streets.
Via Metro Abbesses, line 12, you can take the metro to Marx-Dormoy stop and visit the Marché La Chapelle (commonly called Marché de l’Olive) at 10 rue l’Olive. This Montmartre covered market has quality items with excellent cheese shops. I recommend visiting the market just to see the building. This covered market dates back to 1885 and has recently been restored. The soaring glass ceiling with lace-work iron supports make it feel like a chapel.
Around the Moulin Rouge
Take Metro line 2 to arrive at the famous Moulin Rouge, founded in 1889, on Boulevard Clichy, Montmartre. Blanche is the closest stop but Pigalle. However, metro stop Place de Clichy gets you to Boulevard Clichy and within walking distance of the Moulin Rouge.
Moulin Rouge Cabaret
Join the locals on Sundays! Take Metro line 2 to the Anvers stop. Strap on your skates or bring your bike and join the locals on Boulevard de Rochechouart. The street closes to cars during this time!
Skating on Blvd de Rochechouart on Sundays
From the Blanche metro stop (line 2), follow rue Lepic north. On your left at #15 you will arrive at Café des Deux Moulins. Being featured in the movie Amélie brought fame to this café. I would classify our meal as just mediocre. However, the ice cream confection list is a long one! It’s a good place to stop for an afternoon treat.
Café Deux Moulins of Amélie fame.
If this inspires you to explore more of Montmartre, take a look at my favorite walking route.
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