More Than 10 Reasons Why I Love Amiens

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I love Amiens and I can give at least 10 reasons to visit Amiens in addition the  magnificent Cathedral ! With four days to explore in Amiens,  I loved every minute of my visit. There should be no doubt from the two earlier posts that I love the Cathedral here. But there are an abundance of things to see and/or do in addition to the Cathedral, so I made a plan which I followed more or less.

One benefit of being a flaneur

However, some of the time I just pocketed the plan and wandered aimlessly. Being a flaneur in France, just wandering here and there with no particular agenda or route is a great way to discover little surprises. I’ve marked each of these points on the map at the end of the post.

My list has no particular hierarchy but I will begin with the Cathedral because it was my primary reason to visit Amiens. There are so many reasons why I love Amiens, let me just share the things that captured my attention.

1. Amiens Notre-Dame Cathedral

   Amiens Notre-Dame Cathedral is magnificent and if you read the two blogs posts I wrote, you know that it totally captivated me. There are so many little details to explore both inside and on the outside structure; be sure to allow at least ½ a day to take it all in. If you want to climb the bell towers,  check the Cathedral website before you go.

   

2. Marie sans Chemise

   This delightful clock tower sports not only two names but also a naked woman and, as a result, a turbulent history. Named l’Horlage Dewailly (The Dewailly Clock) after  the former mayor  Dewailly who commissioned the clock in 1894, the clock was meant as a service to the people of Amiens. The train had just arrived in the ville and the mayor wanted the people to have a means of telling time so as to not miss the arrivals at the train station. Because of the naked woman sculpture, the clock is also called Marie sans Chemise (Marie without a blouse)

Marie sans Chemise

3. Beffroi d’Amiens

   The Bell Tower, Beffroi d’Amiens, has an interesting shape and just as irregular opening times (Jul-Aug: some Sun 11am, some Fri 11pm; Mar-Jun and Sep: one Sun per month 11am; rest of year: Sun 3pm – closed 1 Jan, 25 Dec ). Although not open when I was there, I still enjoyed it! The carillon is wonderful even if my video is a bit « unstable » due to side-stepping market shoppers. According to the Michelin Guide the square base dates from the 15th century and the bell tower dome from the 18th. It is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

4. Marchés

   Markets, oh how I love a good outdoor market in France and Amiens had two on this particular Saturday ! My first market stop was Marché Place Parmentier. Stretching along the Somme River, this market benefited from the shade trees and lovely views of Quartier Saint-Leu across the Somme.

   

    

   The second market is on Place Maurice Vast which surrounds the Bell Tower.

   

5. Gardens and Parks

   Les Hortillonages

   A visit to Les Hortillonages topped my list of things to do, right after seeing the Cathedral. Unfortunately, the timing of my stay in Amiens and other obligations during  this trip meant that I arrived before the Hortillonages opened for the season.

   These gardens are a perfect reason for a return visit ! With 300 hectares of marshes used to create fields suitable for cultivation, I look forward to returning here. In June there are floating market boats on the canals.

   Jardin des Plantes

   The Botanical Gardens  (Jardin des Plantes) proved to be interesting even if it was a bit early in the season to be in full bloom. Walking to the gardens was almost as lovely as the gardens themselves !

    

   

   Jardin des Plantes

    

   Parc Saint-Pierre

   The Parc Saint-Pierre follows along the Somme and I enjoyed wandering there ! I followed the Chemin de Halage , after leaving the Jardin des Plantes, until I arrived back at Passage Samarobriva which allowed me to cross back to the center of town. Here is a slide show of the views I had walking along the Somme.

   

   

   

   

   

    

   Amien’s Zoological Park

   I think Amien’s Zoo would be a delightful visit if you have children! This photo is from their Facebook page.

6. Saint Leu Quartier

   The Historic Quartier Saint-Leu invariably shows up as one of the « must see » places here in Amiens. I won’t argue the point at all ! Oh how I loved wandering these streets and looking at the various types of architecture !

   

   

   

   

   One of my favorite views was of the Centre Nautique with the Saint-Leu quartier in the background. This particular day was cold and misty but a little dampness never hurt anyone!

    

   

   Amiens Centre Nautique

   The Eglise Saint-Leu is supposed to be particularly lovely inside but it was locked each of the four times I visited. Sunday morning would have probably proved successful but, as I only had one Sunday here in Amiens, I devoted that particular morning to attending mass in the Cathedral. Built in flamboyant gothic style, Église Saint-Leu dates from 1481.

   

   Amiens Eglise Saint-Leu

7. Ile des Becquerelles

   Careful examination of a map of Amiens reveals why this little quartier (neighborhood) bears the name of Ile des Becquerelles. It is an actual island in the middle of the Somme River. Although not pedestrianized, the streets allow only traffic by residents making them a lovely place for a stroll.

   

   Ile des Besquerelles

    

8. Good Places to Eat

   Dasi Frères

   Dasi Frères turned out to be my favorite place to eat. It is half café and half tea/coffee shop and reminds of Central Perk from the sitom Friends.  There are walls of teas and coffees to explore with Dammann Frères, Palais des Thés and Mariage Frères being my three longtime favorites. The atmosphere is definitely that of a coffee shop with comfy chairs, couches and side tables to rest your drink. However, they do serve a limited selection lunch and have great desserts.

   

   Le Phare

   Le Phare

   What a lovely restaurant Le Phare turned out to be! Located on the same street as the train station, the food is very good and reasonably priced. I ate a traditional Breton crêpe with cider  for lunch.

    

    

   Maxime’s Boulangerie

   Maxime’s proved to be the perfect place for a tea and sweets break. Their religieuse pastry was sinfully delicious !

   

    

   

   Chocolate Easter Eggs

   Jean Trogneux

   Across from the Cathedral is one of two shops I discovered by Jean Trogneux, a local chocolatier. This one not only has sweet treats, pastries and tea/coffee, but also has a selection of locally based gifts and foods that make nice souvenirs.  It was a great place to take a tea/coffee break.

   I definitely recommend trying the macarons as well as the chocolates. To date I’ve experienced 7 different styles of macarons here in France and Jean Trogneux’s macarons d’Amiens are very good and not at all like the macarons you find in Paris.

    

   La Dent Creuse

   Locals filled La Dent Creuse which is situated on the Cathedral square. Several reviews I read complained that it was overly expensive. I disagree. The Sunday menu, 25 euros, was more than I could eat and was so good ! To borrow a French expression, the price was correct.  Beneath each photo, I wrote the description of the dish and the Menu is to the right so you can read the specifics of each dish. (If you’re wondering, I did not eat anything else the remainder of the day after this lunch!)

   

   

   
   

    

9. Jules Verne Museum

   I’m not an avid museum person but I am an avid reader so I really enjoyed this museum which is located in Verne’s house here in Amiens. Inside are models from the fantastic voyages in his stories as well as copies of his books. It was a fascinating little museum.

   

10. Cirque de Jules Vernes

    The most spectacular part of the Circque for me were the spring flowers. Circuses and other events happen here regularly but I think the Cirque d’Hiver in Paris is a much lovelier building.

    

    Walking from the Cirque de Jules Vernes to the Musée de Jules Vernes, I took the « below street » route which was peaceful and quiet.

     

    

    Back at street level, I found this wonderful statue commemorating Jules Verne not far from the museum.

Statue dedicated to Jules Verne in Square Jules Verne

11. Flaneur Findings

    Here are just a few of my discovered treasures found by just wandering aimlessly around Amiens (ie being a flaneur).

    Not far from the Jules Verne Museum, I found a bench to sit and review my map. A woman in her 80s with her dog asked to share the bench. As we had shelties in common, we found lots to talk about. It delighted her to discover I spoke French. I  was equally delighted to be able to have the experience of talking with her !

    Walking to the Jules Verne Museum, my route took me by L’Hôtel de Berny. It dates from 1634 and bears the name of Gérard de Berny, who acquired the hôtel in 1884. As a collector and bibliophile, he stocked the building with antiquities of the Picardie region.

    

    L’Hôtel Bouctot-Vagniez was a delightful find because I love Art Nouveau architecture. It has served as a Museum of Natural History and then as the Picardie Regional Chamber of Commerce and Industry. Currently it is being transformed to a restaurant/hotel.

    

    

    

    

    

The Green Stars are the Guide Points

Mon histoire en français…

Amiens a volé mon cœur la première fois quand je me suis promenée dans ses rues. Au début, c’était difficile à décider ce qui je voulais explorer. Donc, je vais vous partager quelques choses que j’aimais le plus.

1. La cathédrale de Notre-Dame est impressionnante !

Elle est la plus grande cathédrale de la France. Les sculptures à l’extérieur et celles à l’intérieur m’ont données les frissons. Cependant, l’expérience de marché dans le labyrinthe en priant et en contemplation je me souviendrai toute ma vie.

2. L’Horloge Dewailly

L’Horloge Dewailly a été commandée en 1894 pour annoncer aux habitants l’heure pour que personne ne manque un train. Grâce à cet ancien maire Dewailly d’Amiens, les habitants de moyens modestes ont profité parce qu’ils ne possédaient pas de montre. Cette horloge est aussi appelée le nom ‘Marie sans chemise’ à cause de la statue nue sous la face de l’horloge.

3. Le Beffroi d’Amiens

Le Beffroi d’Amiens est une tour de forme irrégulière avec un joli carillon qui a sonné pendant que j’étais au marché.

4. Les marchés extérieurs

Les marchés extérieurs sont toujours intéressants. Amiens a un marché autour du Beffroi et aussi un marché qui suit le long de la berge de la rivière Somme qui m’a donné de belles vues du Quartier St-Leu.

5. Le quartier historique de St-Leu

Le quartier historique de St-Leu présente à un photographe beaucoup d’occasions à prendre ses photos. L’architecture des bâtiments d’Amiens m’a fasciné.

6. Les jardins et les parcs sont nombreux.

Les Hortillonnages ont 300 hectares de marais avec des canaux et des champs cultivables. En plus, on peut profiter de belles vues dans le Jardin des Plantes. Pendant une très calme balade le long de la Somme après ma visite au Jardin des Plantes, je me suis trouvée dans le Parc Saint-Pierre. J’ai continué le long de la berge en profitant des belles vues du parc et du quartier Saint-Leu.

7. l’Île des Becquerelles

Entre le Jardin des Plantes et le Parc de Saint-Pierre se cache l’Île des Becquerelles. Les rues sont réservées pour les voitures locales donc il est un lieu parfait de se promener.

8. Le musée de Jules Verne

Le musée de Jules Verne possède un très grand nombre de modèles des voyages fantastiques des histoires de Verne. Il y a aussi une collection de ses livres. C’est un petit musée mais je m’en étais occupée tout l’après-midi.

9. Le Cirque de Jules Verne

Les fleurs m’ont accroché avant que j’aie vu le bâtiment de Cirque de Jules Verne. Ce bâtiment est multifonctionnel. J’ai raté l’exposition du cirque de 2 jours. Quel dommage!

10. Mes Souvenirs le plus fort de tous

C’était ma promenade entre le musée et le cirque qui ragaillardit mon esprit après la déception de manquer le cirque. La voie que j’ai suivi sous le niveau de la rue et très paisible. Cependant, c’était ma conversation avec une vieille femme qui était assise sur un banc que je chéris. Nous nous sommes parlées de ceci et cela et rien en particulier. Elle était ravie que je puisse parler français et moi, j’étais ravie d’être capable de parler avec elle ! Tu sais que mes souvenirs de cette heure sont le plus fort de tous.