Charming Passages and Galeries in Paris

Paris passages and galeries are a hidden aspect of Paris. These beautiful covered passages provide an escape from the elements and a glimpse into a different aspect of Paris shopping. To compare the covered Passages and Galeries to an American mall would be a grave injustice. The atmosphere provides is an intimate escape from the noise of the busy city.

Galerie Vivienne

Step back in time with me to the end of the 18th century as we explore some of Paris Passages and Galeries. At one time Paris had 150 of these covered passages. Now fewer than 30 remain and some of these are inaccessible to the public. (A red icon on the map below denotes those passages that are inaccessible.) Some of these Passages are  now classified as historic monuments.

I think it interesting to note that the Passages that extend from Palais Royal to the Boulevards Montmartre and Italiens all run north-south while those Passages in the more commercial area of St Denis run east-west. As you can see from the map, the Passages are concentrated on the right side of the Seine.

Each Passage is filled with shops, cafés and restaurants, bearing its own ambience and history. For each, I will list a random sampling of the types of boutiques to be found within. We will begin just north of the Palais Royal.

Passages Palais Royale Gardens

Palais Royal Gardens Passages and Galeries

– Metro Stop Pyramides

• Passage Choiseul – one of the longest Paris Passages Galeries in Paris, this Passage exists on two levels.
• Passage Colbert – an abundance of bookstores, graphic comics stores and paper shops.
• Galerie Vivienne – possibly the best known (prettiest, most elegant and most prestigious are just a few descriptions) of the Paris Passages.
• Galerie Véro-Dodat – has alternating glass roofs and ceilings, brass arches and an abundance of rich dark wood. Here you will find a painting gallery, art books, doll shop and luxury shoes.
• The Passage des Deux-Pavillions connects Passage de Beaujolais and Galerie Vivienne.
• Passage du Perrons – is very short but filled with charming boutiques featuring antiques, music boxes and more.
• Passage de Beaujolais – is between rue de Pensier and rue de Richelieu. Colette lived here at Number 9.

Passage Grands Blvds

Grands Boulevards Passages and Galeries

– Metro Stop Grands Boulevards

• Passage des Panoramas – the center of social life for this area, you will find the famous engraver Stern, antique postcards, stamp collectors, a tea shop and more. Enter the passage on rue Saint-Marc and exit on Boulevard Montmartre facing Passage Jouffroy.
• Passage Jouffroy – here you will find a bookstore specializing in all things pertaining to the cinema. Hotel Chopin anchors one end of the passage and Musée Grevin the other.
• The Passage Verdeau is the smallest of this group of passages, its barreled glass canopy is almost identical to that of Passage Jouffroy.
• Passage des Princes- Florentine in style with stores oriented to children, clothing, furnishings, toys, etc.

Quartier of St Denis Passages and Galeries

Passage St Denis

– Metro Château d’Eau ( Click here for photos.)

• Passage Brady – the odors and colors that assail you will make you feel as though you are approaching Africa or India.
• The Passage du Bourg-l’Abbé has beautiful arched glass ceilings with pastel painted scenery on the wood surfaces but there are areas that have seriously atrophied.
• Passage du Grand-Cerf – at almost 36 feet high, this is the highest of the Paris passages. There are wonderful shops for finding tableware, pottery, and ceramics as well as art galleries. Most fascinating are the walkways above that lead to apartments with terraces and small gardens.
• The Passage du Ponceau sells ready to wear clothing
• Passage du Caire (Cairo) – like its name, the architectural style here is Egyptian. It has 3 corriders and 6 entrances and is one of the longest Paris passages galeries.
• Passage du Prado – Art Deco in style, this is a very old passage but was only recently covered (in the early 20th century).

Passage Ponceau

Randomly Located passages and galeries

What follows are Passages that are scattered about and are most easily located by the nearest Metro.

• Passage Puteaux – a fairly short passage with nice restaurants and charming décor. Metro Stop Rome
• Passage du Havre- once closed to the public it is now a shopping mecca. If you want an abundance of name brand shops you would see in the US (Levi, Fossil, Gap, Claire’s) plus others then this should be your destination. To me, it lacks the charm of the other passages. Metro Stop Haussmann Saint Lazare
• Galerie de la Madeleine – look up as you enter here and observe the keystone in the arch. There you will see the name of the architect and the year constructed. Inside is an air of opulence and quiet – vastly different from Place de la Madeleine from which you just exited. Metro Stop Madeline
• Passage Vendôme – has Gothic vaults that I think are fascinating but in general this Passage has fallen into disrepair. Metro Stop République

Paris Passages and Galeries which are no longer open to the public

• Passage Benn Aïad (originally Passage du Saumon) – Metro Stop Sentier
• Passage Richer – Metro Stop Grands Boulevards

Map of passages and galeries

Before visiting Paris’ oldest Passage, look at this map of all the passages created in Google maps.

Paris’ Oldest Passage Galerie– metro stop Odeon

I would be remiss if I did not point out that Paris’ oldest passage, according to Thomas Carlson-Reddig’s An Architect’s Paris, lies not with the elegantly designed passages of the right bank but in the Latin Quarter on the left bank. Step back in time with Cour du Commerce  Saint André as you carefully walk the cobblestone path. This passage is both covered and uncovered.  Here you will find many restaurants and bistros, including the Procope, as well as other wonderful little shops. Enter this pre-Haussmanian architecture era via Boulevard Saint Germain between the Odeon metro stop and rue Mazarine or watch the video for a walk through this wonderful passage.

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