Saintes- a Fascinating Gallo Roman town filled with amazing history
The Gallo- Roman town of Saintes which dates back over 2000 years is the capitol of the Santoigne Department in the Poitou-Charentes (now the Nouvelle Aquitane). This delightful town is easy to navigate on foot. I parked my car in one of the numerous car-parks and walked everywhere. My B&B was only about 2 blocks from the Cathedral of St-Pierre so the location was perfect.
Saintes is a town with an amazing Gallo-Roman history. Monuments and sites to see range from ancient (40-50 A.D.), to Medieval to present day. I will begin historically with the ancient past and move outward from there.
Gallo-Roman Sites in Saintes
The Gallo-Roman Amphitheatre is my favorite part of the town. Having been to the Coliseum in Rome (which is truly impressive), I still prefer this amphitheater over the Coliseum. It is still used for events today and being able to walk down in to the center and stand where Gauls and Romans once stood in 40-50 A.D. is what speaks to me. Take the lovely shaded footpath beside 54 cours Reverseaux to find this amphitheater which once seated 15,000 people and step back in time to the reign of Claudius in 40 A.D.
Gallo-Roman Amphitheatre
Arc of Germanicus
Another Gallo-Roman remain in Saintes is the Arc of Germanicus which served as the gate to the town on the Roman road from Lyon. The Arc now sets proudly on the right side of the river (the cathedral and amphitheater are on the left side of the river). A very short distance from the Arc is the Archeological Museum which young and old alike will enjoy as it is not your typical museum. It is quite small and filled with nothing but large pieces of ancient stonework. Both the Arc and the museum are located on the Esplanade André Malraux.
Saintes Triumphal Arch – Arc of Germanicus
Just to the left in the above photo, amidst the trees, you will find a nice picnic area and a footbridge to take you back over the the Cathedral and city center. By the way, you can see this Cathedral through the arch above!
Bridge over the Charente River, Saintes
Place des Récollets
You will also discover another piece of Roman history at Place des Récollets. In 1975 they discovered a piece of the town wall that dates from the 4th century. This wall was built from stones taken from even older buildings. Look for the ornately sculptured blocks that were used as foundation stones.
Place des Récollets
The ancient Thermal Baths of St Saloine date back to the first century. Follow rue St Vivenne which is adjacent to the Courts complex, past the Church of St Vivien until you arrive at rue des Thermes Romains. A steep up-hill walk greeted me even though it was still June. Having now walked the narrow streets, I hesitate to even consider driving a car through here!
Thermal Baths of St- Saloine
Churches and Cathedral in Saintes
Basilica Saint-Eutrope
As you walk down the path toward the amphitheater you will see signs on your left directing you up to street level where the Basilica of Saint-Eutrope is located. Saint-Eutrope is designated as a Unesco World Heritage site as part of the pilgrimage “Routes of Santiago de Compostela”. The day I visited there was a neighborhood brocante sale up and down the streets surrounding the church.
St-Eutrope
Seeking to escape the heat of the afternoon, I slipped in the side door of the church. However, that particular door led immediately to the crypt due to the fact that the church is built on a small hill/slope. Technically the lower church, not the crypt, as the two churches constructed on top of each other form Saint-Eutrope.
Dedicated to the 1st evangelist and martyr in Saintes, the lower church houses the tomb of Saint-Eutrope. I felt as if I would melt because of the heat that day. Even now when I look at these photos, I remember that sense of relief the coolness gave me. The change in temperature between the outside and the crypt was fairly amazing.
Saint-Eutrope Crypt
Abbaye aux Dames
Located on the right side of the Charente River, the Abbaye aux Dames is the largest example of Santoigne Romanesque architecture. (Santoigne was a province of France which became part of this region and France after the Revolution.) What characterizes Romanesque architecture? Round arches and vaults. Another characteristic is the substitution of piers for columns along with a profuse use of ornamentation and arcades. The Earl of Anjou founded his monastic order for women in 1047. This was the first religious institution for women in the Santoigne and the second largest abbey in France after the Abbey of Fontevraud. The Abbaye hosts the famous Saintes Music Festival along with other cultural events and exhibitions.
Abbaye aux Dames Entrance
Abbaye aux Dames Chapel
Cathedral of St Pierre
The crowning glory of the churches in Saintes is the Cathedral of St Pierre. A regular Saturday market thrives under the shade trees adjacent to the Cathedral. It is easy to navigate using its magnificent bell tower as you wander around Saintes.
Saintes Cathedral, Poitou-Charentes Region France
Saintes is a beautiful town to visit and walk through. It is filled with many more architectural sites than I was able to list here. It is centrally located in this region so you will find many options for day trips away from the town. I highly recommend you take an afternoon to drive the little back roads through the sunflower fields if you are here during July and August. You will not be disappointed!
This map pinpoints all the places I visited . Click on it top open an interactive map in google.
Mon histoire en français…
J’adore la ville de Saintes dans le département de Charente-Maritime. C’est une ville gallo-romaine avec des monuments et des lieux qui datent du passé ancien (40-50 après JC), du moyen Âge et du nos jours.
Les Sites gallo-romains
L’amphithéâtre gallo-romain fonctionne aujourd’hui pour les événements. Nous pouvions nous promener au centre où les gaulois et les romains se trouvaient autrefois. C’était impressionnant et m’a touchée plus que le Colisée de Rome.
L’arc de Germanicus a été la porte de la ville sur le chemin romain à Lyon. Pas loin de l’Arc, il y a un petit musée archéologique rempli de gros morceaux de maçonnerie et des statues datant du cinquième siècle. L’Arc est sur l’autre côté de la rivière que l’amphithéâtre, mais il y a une belle passerelle sur la Charente qui les relie.
Traverser cette passerelle, nous trouvions des ruines romaines à la Place des Récollets en route aux anciens Thermes de Saint-Saloine du premier siècle. La montée raide aux thermes n’était pas une balade facile !
Trois sites religieux
En outre, il y a trois sites religieux qui m’ont impressionnée, chacun de façon différente. La basilique Saint-Eutrope, près de l’amphithéâtre, est composée de deux églises, l’une au-dessus de l’autre. J’étais confuse quand j’y suis entrée. Puisque la Basilique a été construite sur le côté d’une petite colline, j’ai dû entrée par une porte extérieure et je suis arrivée quand même directement dans la crypte. Néanmoins, l’atmosphère fraîche a été un soulagement bienvenue après la chaleur de l’extérieur.
La cathédrale de Saint-Pierre est plus proche de la Charente que la Basilique. Elle a un grand clocher qui était utile pour la navigation lors de mes explorations de la ville. En plus, il y a un bon marché chaque samedi qui s’étend sous l’ombre de la Cathédrale et les arbres là.
Enfin, l’Abbaye aux Dames est le plus grand exemple de l’architecture romaine de Santoigne. Santoigne a été une ancienne province de France qui est devenue un part de France après la Révolution. Cette Abbaye était la première institution religieuse pour les femmes de Saintes. Établie en 1067, elle était la deuxième plus grande abbaye de France, après l’Abbaye de Fontevraud.
L’Abbaye aux Dames
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